Thursday 23 May 2013

Bespoke Tailoring

Alexander McQueen- A Great Artisan

One of the best known British designers of all times, Alexander McQueen sums up all that is British, uniqueness, quirky, but beautifully made.
He was a British fashion designer and couturier best known for his in-depth knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, his collection could be very feminine almost fragile but still had great strength and the power to shock at times. His fashion shows could be very provocative and did force people to think.
McQueen's early runway collections developed his reputation for controversy and shock tactics and he was called the L’Enfant terrible as well as "the hooligan of English fashion. His collections were also named to shock titles such as Highland Rape. But I think it was just theatre, if at times a little dark.  Alexander McQueen was known for over the top, unconventional runway shows: a recreation of a shipwreck for his spring 2003 collection; spring 2005's human chess game; and his fall 2006 show "Widows of Culloden", which featured a life-sized hologram of supermodel Kate Moss dressed in yards of rippling fabric. He used new technology and innovation to add a different twist to his shows and often shocked audiences and I am sure the fashion world is a much duller place without his unique showmanship.
Behind the drama, Alexander McQueen did have a formal, traditional apprenticeship at Anderson and Shepherds, Savile Row Tailors, and then at Gieves and Hawkes. I think this does show in the construction and sharp fit of his clothing. He then moved on to Angels and Bermans, theatrical costumiers, where he mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting.  He went on to work for inventive designer Koji Tatsuno in London and then Romeo Gigli in Italy.
When he returned to London he completed a Master’s degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martin’s. In 1992 he was spotted by Isabella Blow who was going to have a huge impact on his future, personally and professionally, becoming his muse.
He had a profound respect and was influenced by the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander’s collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing. In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of 2001. In December 2000, 51% of Alexander McQueen was acquired by the Gucci Group, where he remained Creative Director.


 
In Style magazine listed an Alexander McQueen dress in the "100 Best Dresses of the Decade. McQueen also became known for using skulls in his designs. A scarf bearing the motif became a celebrity must-have and was copied around the world.
Alexander McQueen’s major achievement in fashion have been recognized by the following awards: British Designer of the year 1996, 1997, 2001, and 2003, International Designer of the Year by The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in 2003, A Most Excellent Commander of The British Empire (CBE)
Today his legacy is continued by the talented Sarah Burton.

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Bye for now
Sara x

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